When in Florence, an absolute MUST do activity is shopping for leather. From leather markets, to Scuola del Cuoio (the leather school), to traditional leather shops lining the piazzas, there are so many ways to buy leather in Florence! I can assure you that each will provide a different experience—all special in their own way.
The history of leather in Florence goes all the way back to the 13th century. The Santa Croce district housed the first leather markets, tanneries and leather labs. Due to it’s proximity to the Arno River, Santa Croce was the perfect location for the leather market, as access to clean water is essential for leather production. Later, in the 19th century, the production moved outside of the city—the bad odors from leather production began creeping into the city, which meant it was time to go! And while the production moved to the outskirts, the art of creating leather goods and act of buying them remained within Florence.
When visiting Florence today, I would start my leather shopping in the markets. San Lorenzo and Mercato del Porcellino are the main ones, where you can enjoy the lively spirit and energy of the market. It’s fun to bargain with the merchants and shop as you walk through. You’ll find that there are trinkets, and small leather goods in the open air market, while larger items like bags and jackets are in storefronts, behind the market. You can start by chatting with the merchants at the stands, and if you’re looking for a special item, they’ll take you into their store behind the stand for a personal shopping experience. This is how I scored a hot pink leather jacket when I was studying abroad! Some great items to get in the open air market are leather notebooks and belts. There are also non-leather items in the markets too, like scarves and souvenirs. A fun experience in Mercato del Porcellino is to rub the snout of the bronze boar— “il porcellino.” Leave a coin in his open mouth for good luck and rub his snout to ensure a return to Firenze!
Next stop would be the leather school, Scuola del Cuoio. This is where you can see true artisans at work. The workmanship on these pieces is incredible, and you can watch the leather workers cutting, sewing, and decorating, as you walk through the different rooms in the school. The school is completely open to the public, with an expansive shop, where you can purchase the finest leather goods, without the designer price tag. This is where I would buy a wallet or a classic leather bag. You could even book a tour of the school, which showcases the gilding process and techniques, along with a demonstration and explanation of the different types of skin.
Lastly, if you’re looking for a retail experience, I would visit the shops in town. Many of these shops can be found within the piazzas, offering everything from name brand items to lesser known designers. I would suggest buying a pair of leather boots in a shop. This way, you can comfortably try on the different styles, as you normally would in a store. One of my favorite Italian designers, Alviero Martini Primo Classe, unfortunately is not sold in the US, had an outlet in Florence. This is where I bought one of my favorite leather bags! It’s so unique and for a designer item, heading to the shops is essential.
As I’m typing this, I’m longing for the smell of leather, the energy of the market, and excitement that surrounds buying a new leather item in Florence. You’ll always have the memories of the experience and a story behind the leather goods you take home!