So this is two part…part one: my must-do list for 24 hours in Milano and part two: making panzerotti at home! One leads to the other, as my absolute, number one activity while in Milano is stopping at Luini, the small window shop right near the duomo that serves panzerotti— fried pockets of dough filled with mozzarella, tomatoes and various other fillings. Bold statement: the panzerotti from Luini are one of the best things I have ever eaten in my entire life. Luckily, Joe and I found a recipe that replicates it, taking us right back to Milano!
24 hours in Milan is a common stop on a Barrese trip to Italia. We’ve found that the most cost effective, direct flights from New York land in Milano. Sometimes flying into Rome can cost double! Usually, we will fly into MIlan, spend our day adjusting to the time difference and then set off to our real Italian destination. For starters, we stay at the same hotel every time we go: ME Milan Il Duca. It’s so nice and it’s in the perfect location for train travel, situated just 1 km walking distance from Milano Centrale station. There’s also an amazing rooftop bar, which is a great spot to be able to go and have aperitivo or an after dinner drink in the comfort of your hotel! It’s a must-stay for us.
Usually, our 24 hour hours in Milan will include a nap at some point, having had a rough “night” sleep on the plane and adjusting to the time difference. You probably know that most flights to Italy from New York are in the evening, and you land early in the morning. It’s best to beat jet lag by starting your day as you land, to get on the new time zone. First, we’ll drop off our luggage, freshen up and get out for some fresh air and exploration. If we’re there super early, we’ve gone to Biancolatte for breakfast, an adorable cafe/restaurant where breakfast is served. If you remember my post about the crostata di marmellata, breakfast culture isn’t really a thing in Italy. So to find an adorable place that serves breakfast, where you can actually sit and be served by a waiter, is fun and a great way to spend a morning in Milan.
After breakfast, we’re off to the Galleria, which happens to be Italy’s oldest shopping mall! The glass atrium ceilings make you feel like you’re part inside/part outside. The design is beautiful and the luxury shops inside are perfect for window shopping. My favorite thing to do at the Galleria is take a spin on the bull’s balls. You read that right. There is mosaic tile on the floor of a bull, where legend has it, if you spin on the “balls” three times, you’ll have good luck! There’s no missing this spot, as tourists gather around in a circle and watch everyone spin. Just hop in for your turn, where a small hole has developed over centuries of spinning!
Next stop is the duomo. The duomo in Milan is truly a masterpiece. It took over six centuries to complete, having started construction in 1386 and completing the finishing touches in 1965. It’s also the largest church in Italy! The detail of the sculptures on the exterior is incredible. Take a trip to the roof, for free, and you can get a closer look at this detail and an amazing view of the main city square.
After the duomo is when we usually pop by Luini for lunch. If you find yourself in Milan, I am telling you, this will NOT disappoint! But, if you’re stateside for a while due to the pandemic, we’ve got you covered. Rosella Rago’s panzerotti recipe tastes almost identical to Luini. And while Luini has been in business in Milan since 1888, we were surprised to learn that panzerotti is actually a Southern Italian cuisine, specifically from Puglia. The best way to think of a panzerotti is a calzone that is deep fried instead of baked. Traditional panzerotti are stuffed with tomatoes and cheese, but you can stuff with whatever you’d like! Check out a video of her recipe HERE & below is a quick reference of instructions and ingredients (a few tweaks on our end)! As my mom likes to quote her grandmother, “mangia tutt’cosi”—eat everything!
INGREDIENTS:
• 6 ounces fresh mozzarella, cubed
• 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (I like Locatelli!)
• 1/2 cup cherry tomatoes, cut into 1/4 inch dice
• Pizza dough (we bought ours from a local pizzeria but you can make yours. Make sure it’s room temperature before starting the process).
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Add 2 tablespoons of mozzarella to the center of each piece of dough (cut & flatten the pizza dough to be about the size of your fist). Follow with 1 tablespoon of Parmigiano Reggiano and 1 tablespoon of diced tomatoes. Fold the dough over to create a pocket.
2. Seal the edges around the filling by pressing with your fingers & then press with a fork to get little marks on the edges. With a small pie cutter, trim the excess edges, leaving a small border about 1 inch (13 mm) wide.
3. Heat 1 inch (2.5 cm) of frying oil in a 5-quart (4.7 L) heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium-high heat. Fry the panzerotti in batches until golden brown, about 2 minutes per batch.
